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Weird 1d. Have you ever surfed with stitches?
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Finnegan was, is, a stud? As it turned out, the sixty two year old Finnegan is a pal of the former Surfer editor, pro surfer and Encyclopedia of Surfing curator Matt Warshaw. Try London Fields for an intro to his work.
I wanted to be blinded by the glare of his intellect, his adventurous spirit, despite my usual rule of avoiding better men. This goes for paddling out on a scary day as well as stroking into a scary wave. That tipping point has rational content, usually, based on your experience, which in my case is a lot of years now. But it also has irrational parts, which I try to control and tamp down with little pep talks to myself. I did that a couple of years ago at Tres Palmas, Puerto Rico, on a big swell.
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But I had a gun, so I paddled out. Nobody could see any of our rides from shore. Actually worse, in my experience, than the traumatized, jesus-I-nearly-drowned feeling. If he could swing back decades, back into surfing prime, in those days when he was all over Tavarua and Grajagan, would he do anything different? That wasand there was nobody around, and my friends and I had never been there before.
We were camping in a half-collapsed tree house, and there were only two of us surfing. The place was already famous, and we had heard about these long fast barreling lefts.
I got myself into enough trouble.
Two winters ago, I got two intense barrels back-to-back on the North Shore. That was just a few weeks after my 60th birthday.
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No fool like an old fool! It just does nothing, obviously, for anybody else. But in the end surfing, in my opinion, does little or nothing to build or improve character. As we all know, a lot of assholes surf, and some of them surf well. No one reports better than the New Yorker. How, I asked, could surfing be reported better? BeachGrit seems to be an exception. Am I right? Surfing is an unusual journalism niche because the interests of the surf industry, which very largely finances the surf media, are fundamentally at odds with the interests of most surfers, at least as I understand them.
Now let me see if I can find my way off this soapbox without turning an ankle.
Buy Barbarian Days here. Subscribe to The New Yorker here. Our own Rory Parker wrotepassionately and eloquently, not one week ago that skateboarding is better than surfing.
Big Brother stopped publishing magazines inover a decade ago or an eternity in popular culture terms.
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